- Off-center - http://blog.richardaerni.com -
Should have been “How to BUILD a glaze spray booth”
Posted By admin On 14. November 2008 @ 20:06 In Uncategorized | 5 Comments
Oh, well, best laid plans and all…
I see as I posted the blog that my attached text either did not add, or else I just don’t know how to access it. So, let me try to explain…
Image one…The booth, the front
Basic 2 x 4 construction, with drywall backing and cheapest glossy shower board inside glued to the drywall. The turntable is an old Brent wheel.
Image two…The inside, after a spray session
This shows the inside, with the floor comprised of two boards which slide in from the front, atop the wheel body but under the wheel head. The exit flue for the spray exhaust is in the back bottom right.
Image three…Inside, one floor board removed
This shows how the floor easily removes. The floor is simple formica covered particle board, scavenged from a cabinet shop.
Image four…The inside, both floorboards removed
This shows the works under the floorboards. The Brent wheel is mounted on top of cinder blocks to bring the working surface to a comfortable level. Why use a potter’s wheel for the turntable? It’s rotation and speed is controlled by a foot pedal, leaving both hands free to spray. Also, this keeps you from having to reach into the spray booth to twirl the turntable, a major inconvenience, not to mention the hazard of breathing the spray.
Image five…Outside the booth, the mechanicals
The exhaust fan motor, which is simply a scavenged (free) household squirrel cage blower from an old forced air furnace. I block off the intake from the outside surface of the blower, so that all exhaust comes from the inside of the spray booth. To increase suction, I hang a baffle down from the top front of the booth when not spraying a very large piece.
Image six…Another view of the complicated works
Another view, showing how the fan is mounted on a table, and is screwed to several 4 x 4 members. I have simply sealed the joint between the booth and the fan using the expandable spray insulation.
Image seven…Outside venting
A picture of the ducting exhausting to the outside. To bring the air through the concrete block wall, I used a rectangular-to- round adapter piece found at Home Depot, and attached a length of 6 inch diameter ducting through the hole in the wall (hammer and chisel, again sealed with expandable foam insulation). I had a piece of galvanized made up to cover over the exit and deflect the spray downward ($50). I do not screen the exhaust, as I’m sending it out into the freightyard of the CSX railroad depot, and they send lots of other stuff back my way. For those of you in “green” areas, my old spraybooth in the country exhausted similarly over a grassy patch, which never showed any ill effects from the glaze spray after 16 years of glazing.
Image eight…View from above
This is taken from roof level. I roofed the booth with drywall, but also installed a standard 4 foot long flourescent light ($10). This gives me all the light I need for glazing, night or day.
Image nine…The rooftop
This image shows the top of the booth, including the incredibly complex carpentry required for it’s construction, as well as the storage place for some random scraps of M Board
Article printed from Off-center: http://blog.richardaerni.com
URL to article: http://blog.richardaerni.com/2008/11/14/should-have-been-how-to-build-a-glaze-spray-booth/
Click here to print.