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- Uncategorized (19)
- 18. December 2008: Off
- 3. December 2008: Been cookin'...gonna cook some more
- 30. November 2008: Crazy time
- 21. November 2008: The Make-do
- 19. November 2008: If Homer Simpson were a potter...
- 16. November 2008: Studio sale 2008
- 14. November 2008: Should have been "How to BUILD a glaze spray booth"
- 14. November 2008: How to glaze a spray booth, reel cheep...
- 13. November 2008: Soup, lovely soup
- 12. November 2008: How committed are you?
Should have been “How to BUILD a glaze spray booth”
Oh, well, best laid plans and all…
I see as I posted the blog that my attached text either did not add, or else I just don’t know how to access it. So, let me try to explain…
Image one…The booth, the front
Basic 2 x 4 construction, with drywall backing and cheapest glossy shower board inside glued to the drywall. The turntable is an old Brent wheel.
Image two…The inside, after a spray session
This shows the inside, with the floor comprised of two boards which slide in from the front, atop the wheel body but under the wheel head. The exit flue for the spray exhaust is in the back bottom right.
Image three…Inside, one floor board removed
This shows how the floor easily removes. The floor is simple formica covered particle board, scavenged from a cabinet shop.
Image four…The inside, both floorboards removed
This shows the works under the floorboards. The Brent wheel is mounted on top of cinder blocks to bring the working surface to a comfortable level. Why use a potter’s wheel for the turntable? It’s rotation and speed is controlled by a foot pedal, leaving both hands free to spray. Also, this keeps you from having to reach into the spray booth to twirl the turntable, a major inconvenience, not to mention the hazard of breathing the spray.
Image five…Outside the booth, the mechanicals
The exhaust fan motor, which is simply a scavenged (free) household squirrel cage blower from an old forced air furnace. I block off the intake from the outside surface of the blower, so that all exhaust comes from the inside of the spray booth. To increase suction, I hang a baffle down from the top front of the booth when not spraying a very large piece.
Image six…Another view of the complicated works
Another view, showing how the fan is mounted on a table, and is screwed to several 4 x 4 members. I have simply sealed the joint between the booth and the fan using the expandable spray insulation.
Image seven…Outside venting
A picture of the ducting exhausting to the outside. To bring the air through the concrete block wall, I used a rectangular-to- round adapter piece found at Home Depot, and attached a length of 6 inch diameter ducting through the hole in the wall (hammer and chisel, again sealed with expandable foam insulation). I had a piece of galvanized made up to cover over the exit and deflect the spray downward ($50). I do not screen the exhaust, as I’m sending it out into the freightyard of the CSX railroad depot, and they send lots of other stuff back my way. For those of you in “green” areas, my old spraybooth in the country exhausted similarly over a grassy patch, which never showed any ill effects from the glaze spray after 16 years of glazing.
Image eight…View from above
This is taken from roof level. I roofed the booth with drywall, but also installed a standard 4 foot long flourescent light ($10). This gives me all the light I need for glazing, night or day.
Image nine…The rooftop
This image shows the top of the booth, including the incredibly complex carpentry required for it’s construction, as well as the storage place for some random scraps of M Board
16. November 2008 at 12:49
Richard,
I have a question about your spray booth. I noticed some over spray on the back and side walls. How do you keep that from flaking off when spraying? I’ve had trouble with overspray
flaking off and landing on the new piece I’m spraying. It’s especially troublesome when I am going from a dark glaze to a lighter one, as it
fouls the lighter coat.
Any suggestions?
Jamie
16. November 2008 at 16:03
Will this spray booth work outside. I don’t have room in my studio for a spray booth and I really need one?
16. November 2008 at 20:15
Nicely spelled out Richard. I have to admit, all the times I saw your spray unit, I never really paid all that much attention to it. You OBVIOUSLY have built this unit with tons of forethought and years of experience. Very cool to see it all laid bare.
16. November 2008 at 20:34
Ellie,
I don’t know where you are located, but if you’re in a warmer clime than me (northwestern NY state), why not just pull a wheel outside and set up and just spray on it? The only reason for the box (booth) would be to keep the wind away from the spray area. My first spray booth was just a styrofoam box built around my extra wheel with a window exhaust fan in the back, set up on my back porch. Each one has gotten a bit better and a bit better looking. But, as you can see from the pix, I am mostly interested in something that works good, not something that looks good.
Jamie, the overspray marks there in the pix are the result of a kilnload of spraying. When I’m working, any large areas of overspray tend to stay wet, and not flake off. However, if it’s a problem, just take a scraper (I use a 6 inch drywall knife) and clean off the wall. That’s why I use the glossy coated shower board. Easy to clean. Also, the interior of my spray booth is about 3 feet by 4 feet, so anything that falls from the walls just goes behind the pot being sprayed.
Alex, nice to hear your kind words. I go with what works for me…everyone else’s situation may be different. But the idea that one _must_ go with a commercial unit instead of figuring something out for yourself is just plain wrong. My spray booth works better than many which I’ve seen in art centers and colleges.
17. November 2008 at 13:04
Thanks for the clarification, Richard.